Buenos Aires Recoleta and Palermo Viejo

Thursday 18th February.

Had an "American Breakfast" at Cafe Las Violetas, on the opposite corner from Tunin. It proudly proclaims to be 131 years old and looks like nothing much has changed in the intervening century or so. The breakfast was huge, an omelette, four slices of toast, butter and jam, a bowl of fruit salad,  two medialunas, fruit juice   and coffee.

http://www.lasvioletas.com/

"American" Breakfast at Violetas

Violetas

Then got the Subte to Pueyrredon, the nearest station to Recoleta Cemetery which, according to one of the guide books, is the number one place to visit in Buenos Aires. Personally, I don't think it says much for any city to have its cemetery as the number one attraction. Before reaching the cemetery, I had a look round the associated church and its much hyped cloisters. The 18th century church was impressive in its ornate baroque style. The "cloisters“ are old passages and chambers, quite sensibly used for storage and maintenance, and closed to the public for three centuries. Then they were opened up and filled with assorted historical "treasures". There is the 14th century painting where the background has been repainted at some stage and "so has the rest of the painting" so what we are left with is a painting by multiple unknown artists at unknown times on a piece of 14th century wood. There is the battered and faded wooden statue that fails miserably to live up to its description of "Immaculate Virgin". I resisted the temptation to add some sexist and blasphemous comment.  Finally a faded 17th or 18th century Italian tasselled and embroidered yellow umbrella sent for sale by an enterprising Italian priest to Buenos Aires in 1944, presumably expecting to get a better price from gullible Argentines than from his war weary and cynical fellow countrymen.  In fairness, some of the other exhibits probably do have some real historical interest, and also on the plus side, most of the information is presented in English as well as Spanish and it only costs 15 pesos.

But the cemetery next door, possibly number one attraction in Buenos Aires, is totally free. It does have many ornate and impressive tombs and provided you can avoid the large tour groups being herded round by young and enthusiastic guides, it’s a fascinating place to ponder mortality. Quite surprised as I came in to see so many young people in their early twenties, all bright eyed and bushy tailed. The tomb I was expecting to see crowds around is tucked away in one of the narrowest "streets", so it's physically impossible to lead a group of fifty or even a dozen people to it.  But Eva Peron's tomb does have more flowers on it than any of the others. On it, as on many other tombs, dedications seem to have been added later by various individuals and organisations so I was surprised not to see a note of thanks from Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice. But, without them, how many of us outside Argentina would know anything about her? 

Angel Flying over Recoleta

Quite an Entrance for a Tomb

And She Was One of the Edsel's Few Happy Customers 

To Eva Peron from her "disciples"

More Angels

Having had my fill of ornate tombs, a surprising number having British surnames, I strolled round the upmarket area of Recoleta where many of the ornate mansions now house embassies, found a massive stainless steel kinetic sculpture that apparently opens and closes like a flower at sunrise and sunset and, most importantly, a cold beer. 

Overlooking the Cemetery:
Clearly "Bartender" conveys something
significantly different from "Barman" in Spanish

Not many green spaces in Buenos Aires
but the ones I found were very pleasant

Giant Stainless Steel Flower

Then went back to rediscover Viejo Palermo after checking for specific street names in the Lonely Planet guide book in the hotel. It's clearly a great area to eat, drink and shop for fashion but it still doesn't match my pre-conceptions. Yes, the tarmac has been allowed to wear away to reveal cobbles and tram lines  but most of the buildings look to be post 1950 so not sure what the "viejo" refers to. Even after narrowing it down to specific streets  it covers a huge area much of which I explored until I found the square at the centre  of Palermo Viejo Soho where there several bars and cafes so a cold beer and a snack seemed a good idea. Saw nachos on the menu but was shocked at the huge plate that arrived! The beer came with crisps anyway along with a warning with gestures from the waitress which I was initially confused by until I realised she wanted me to put the plate on top of the bowl of crisps once I'd had my fill to stop the pigeons getting them. I could see the pigeons watching. Decided that the best time to visit Palermo again will be in the evening for a meal and a drink. Pity it isn't well served by the Subte. 

That Should Slow Down the Trams!

Bar in Palermo Viejo Soho