Bariloche to Buenos Aires

Tuesday 16th February

Another beautiful sunny day, quite sorry to be leaving!  And leaving Patagonia a huge and varied region, the "wild south" of a continent. Checked out and got taxi to the airport, 290 pesos. Not an official taxi with meter, the guy on reception gave it a special name but for all I know it was just one of his friends. Quite early so had an ultra-fast check-in followed by a cup of coffee

The flight left on time and I had a window seat sitting next to a young guy with a guitar between his legs. At least I assumed it was a guitar since all I could see was a battered canvas and leather guitar case,  far more ancient than its owner.

Thanks to the clear blue sky, we got a great view of Bariloche and the surrounding mountains as we took off, before turning away from the lake and heading east. The landscape below quickly turns from dry scrub to red and brown desert. It looks totally barren except for a river and lake which I can see has been dammed. A few dead straight roads divide up the desert. Somehow my geography lessons and reading up on South America left me totally unaware that there was a real desert here. But “The Patagonian Desert is the 7th largest desert in the world, covering 673,000 square kilometres", according to http://www.whatarethe7continents.com/deserts-of-the-world/

Limay River flowing through the Patagonian Desert

Oil Wells? 

Later I can see arrays of dozens of squares in the desert connected to each other by straight roads or tracks. What are they? Oil wells? Lunch comprising a soggy cheese and ham sandwich and a chocolate biscuit is served. Quite suddenly the desert landscape below turns to a mainly green agricultural land laid out in a grid of rectangles. Mostly rectangles, a few trapezoids and one non-conformist created triangular fields. 

Agricultural Argentina

Why haven't hexagons ever caught on as field shapes? Eventually the agricultural land gives way to suburbs. Can't see whether they are leafy but some look very affluent, houses on individual plots laid out around man made lakes and golf courses with a bright blue swimming pool in every garden. Some areas more densely packed in grids of streets but still with a few pools. And some blocks with no pools at all. The low rise suburbs give way to high rise buildings as we descent to the airport, named simply “Aeroparque".

Bag arrived and straight into a taxi. It was a longer ride than I had expected and was getting quite worried as the meter was clicking away but in the end the fare was a reasonable 230 pesos. Yes this is 271 Yapeyu, just an old fashioned wooden doorway with absolutely no indication it is a hotel. Push the buzzer at the side of the door and a few moments later it is opened by a charming young woman who greets me in impeccable English and shows me in. Sign in an old fashioned register book and she shows me to my room on the first floor which is simple but lovely. The woman tells me they have tried to keep as many of the original features as possible. The room has a high ceiling and original French doors leading on to a tiny balcony. The bath room is modern and beautifully done,  although the she warns me that the hot and cold water supplies to the shower were juxtaposed so blue is hot and red is cold; glad she told me that. She also gave me a map and directions for how to get to the “Subte", an abbreviation of subterraneo, ie "Underground" or "Metro. It's hot here in BA, hot like Singapore and equally humid, so a shower and relaxation are called for.

Later I got the Subte to Plaza de Mayo the central square dominated by an ornate red building positively shining in the late afternoon sun. Part of the square is cordoned off and there is some of demonstration on taking place. Both here and in Chile there seems to be far more political activism than in Britain. Lots of slogans painted on walls and political street art. In Argentina much of it relates to the military dictatorship which controlled the country in the 1970's and is said to have killed 30 000 people,  many of whom just disappeared. Don't know how active the communist party is but they can still muster enough people to paint slogans on walls. 

La Casa Rosada, "Governor's Palace

One of the Posters at the Demonstration

European looking Street

Colourful Restaurant

7.15 on a Beautiful Evening

Walked around the side streets near the square where the buildings give the area a very "European" look. Somewhere I saw it described as the Paris of South America. Not yet in a position to comment. There are certainly pavement cafes with people relaxing in them and colourful restaurants. Even a shop selling everything you need for microscopy sample preparation, from a company I have never heard  of, Prazis. Then headed to Puerta Madera, BA's answer to London's docklands but on a smaller scale. Loads of restaurants to choose from but many of them look like very upmarket steak houses and are totally empty at a shade after eight. Choice comes down to TGIF or a Mexican place; went for the Mexican where I ordered burritos and a beer. The nachos with the beer were good, as was the beer, but the burritos were disappointing. Definitely not up to Chiquito’s in Leicester Square. Had another walk round Puerto Madera and got the Subte back to the hotel. Considering that most Argentines eat fairly late, the Subte closes down remarkably early, about eleven.

Puerto Madera

Tall Ship in the Harbour